How To Live A Surfing Life : Part 1
From big wave rider to stuntman to fireman–Ryan Hipwood continues finding a path to satisfy his need for intense situations
If the world’ s largest passenger plane, the A380, comes in to land a bit fast or hits the tarmac a bit too hard it can develop a condition known as “hot wheels”, caused by the brakes overheating. With around 30,000 litres of aviation fuel on board, this over-heating can present a real danger of fire, which can quickly escalate to a full-blown emergency.
It takes a special kind of psychological profile to handle such an emergency, a calm under pressure, a readiness to jump into the path of danger and trust that your training and instincts will guide you safely through. A bit like big-wave riding. Which is why it should come as no surprise to find the noted Gold Coast charger Ryan Hipwood taking up duties as a firefighter at Sydney Airport with Aviation Rescue Firefighting Service.
It’s no coincidence that many of Australia’s top big wave riders have had parallel careers as firemen. Bob Pike, one of the first Australians to make an impact in Hawaii back in the ‘60s, was a firey. As was former Quiksilver executive Bruce Raymond, the man who was famously paid to deliberately wipeout at Sunset Beach for the film Big Wednesday back in the ‘70s. These days, the likes of Central Coast charger Justen “Jughead” Allport and Shipsterns pioneer Marty Paradisis also combine their big wave antics with a career in the fire brigade.
And you can add to that list, Ryan Hipwood, a guy who’s hurled himself into some of the biggest and gnarliest days at Jaws, The Right and Shipsterns in recent history.
For Hippo, 34, father of two and with a third on the way, it was a conscious decision to segue out of the full-time role of professional big-wave surfer to something more compatible with family life. “I always knew it was coming. I knew the transition for most people isn’t an easy one, but I always worked a little bit the whole way through,” he says. “I didn’t want to be in my 40s, still chasing it. I was interested in helping people out, using my skills I’d learnt in my surfing career.”
There are good reasons why big wave surfers make excellent emergency workers. There are many parallels and the psychological profiles required are almost identical. Long periods of inaction, training, preparing, checking equipment and waiting for the moment to arise when your skills are put to the test, and the ability to leap it action at a moment’s notice and keep a cool head when chaos is erupting all round you.
“They know exactly how to get the right people for the job. It’s no coincidence that they’re getting similar people and personalities,” says Hippo. “I love the job, I’m always learning. I don’t find it as stressful as I used to, but you always feel like you’re a bit on edge … It’s really similar actually, when the bell’s going off you’ve got to keep your shit together.”
In many ways, big wave surfing has been the perfect preparation for the role, so much so that Hippo reckons the life of a firey is pretty relaxed in comparison to negotiating the step at Shippies or being towed in behind the peak at the Right. “Fighting for that top position as an elite big wave surfer, it’s really cut throat and really competitive. It feels nice to step away … It would be hard to do a job as hard as big wave surfing. It’s a bit of a walk in the park actually.”
Hippo had been preparing for a transition to a new career for some time and, unlike a lot of his peers, had always worked right through his pro surfing days. “I’d always worked construction, because my family was into it. It was pretty easy to get work, my dad and brother are builders. It was pretty awesome that there was work there if I needed it. I’d done a bit of carpentry when I left school. I knew what it was like to work.”
Then, at his peak, Hippo fully immersed himself in the big wave challenge, training, chasing swells, dialling in his equipment, with a healthy contract from Monster energy drinks and a reputation as one of the elite big wave riders in the world. “That kind of consumed my life, then kids came along, sponsorship tightened up, and I knew the industry was on a downward spiral,” he says.
Hippo always kept one eye on future career options and showed a keen entrepreneurial streak. He organised the Cape Fear event at Cape Solander for Red Bull, got involved in Shade Sunscreen and worked as a stuntman and marine coordinator for Walt Disney. Ryan also earned his Master 5 Skipper’s ticket which qualifies him to drive super yachts.
But for now, he’s happy commuting from the Gold Coast to Sydney, three days on and five days off. With his wife Shelly, daughters Arlo, 5, and Millie, 2, and another one on the way, Hippo’s always happy to get back to the Goldy and the job leaves plenty of time for surfing.
“I’d definitely like to keep pushing myself, keep training, go for a couple of Jaws swells,” he says.
In the meantime, he’s ready and willing to leap into action when duty calls, just as he once jumped at the forecast of a swell anywhere in the world. “If an A380 went down that would be the worst-case scenario. There’s been a few close calls, and I hope it never happens.”
Stuntman, big wave rider, firey, super yacht skipper – Hippo’s crammed a lot into his 34 years, and he’s not done yet. He also helped negotiate a deal between his long-time shaper Nev Hyman and The Surfboard Warehouse to collaborate on a range of boards, including a big-wave paddle-in model that should keep guiding Hippo through the big days for many years to come.